On a recent trip to Bordeaux I made an evening detour to Les Halles de Bacalan, a glass-roofed, upmarket food hall on the Garonne River.
Inside, 20- and 30-somethings congregated around high tables snacking on tapas. Others were at the oyster bar, or sampling pungent delights from the cheese stall. A buzz of chatter was in the air.
Les Halles de Bacalan has been pulling in punters since 2017. Open until 10.30pm, from Thursday to Saturday, it’s an evening haunt for young locals and tourists, a diversion from the city’s bars. But it’s far from unique – a food hall craze is taking over European cities, putting traditional pubs and clubs in the shade.
According to Google, searches for food halls…